On the busiest corner in the Central West End sits a newly-opened wine bar and mystery book store that's practically hidden in plain sight. Ed King, above, proprietor of Pagan Wine Bar & Books at 239 N. Euclid, has created a gem of a spot that's bound to become a favorite haunt.
Chris King, Ed's father, and Peter Simpson (husband of the late co-proprietor Helen Simpson) opened the business 28 years ago. When Big Sleep Books closed last year Ed King was evasive about his future plans. However, it was no mystery when anyone stopped in to bid adieu that there was something up his sleeve. After many months of renovation, Pagan Wine Bar & Books quietly opened in April.
Why "pagan," you're probably wondering? As a boy, King spent a lot of time with his grandparents on their farm in out-state Missouri. His grandmother taught school in what King describes as a backwoods country school house. It was from his well-read grandparents that he learned that the Celts, the original winemakers, were also well-versed in the "Greeks & Romans." Pagan Wine Bar & Books seemed a natural moniker for King who, not surprisingly, is also well-read, and a connoisseur of wines too.
To step into the tiny space is to enter what could easily be the setting for one of the international thrillers and spy novels casually stacked on tables and shelves. A collection of Art Deco prints decorates the walls and period light fixtures illuminate the bar area, below.
Since it opened a few weeks ago, Pagan Wine Bar has quickly become known for its fabulous selection of French, Italian, Spanish and California wines, "cold war cocktails," $8 to $10, great music, and a handsome 10-seat bar, handmade by King and his friends. The intimate bar lends itself to quiet conversation with the person you came in with, or before you know it, something you say and is overheard, sparks a lively conversation with complete strangers. King reported that the dominant theme of Sunday night's communal conversation revolved around politics and was quite lively.
On the 500 acres of King family farmland that remain outside Farmington, and an additional 400 acres in Perryville, King is growing many varieties of grapes in what he describes as the European tradition. I surmise that means a "hands off" approach, as Pagan Wine Bar is open 7 days a week and it isn't clear when he'll tend to the 250 cab francs, 100 Spanish tannat, 25 Italian premativo, and 100 petit bordeaux vines he has planted there. He seems confident that it won't be long before he'll be pouring his own wines for customers to savor.
In the near future King will offer simple cocktail fare. For now, if hunger strikes, there's a takeout menu from Thai 202, located next door.
Pagan Wine Bar & Books, 239 N. Euclid, is open everyday from 2 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. You'll love it.